Monday, August 31, 2015

PHOTO CLICHÉS




Some years ago there was a conference of the Society of Photographic Education. During that conference there was a panel of New York gallery directors, including the infamous Ivan Karp from OK Harris in Soho. Someone posed the question, “How do you deal with looking at so many portfolios?’ Karp was quick to reply. “I have a list of photo clichés in my desk. I open each portfolio and compare the top photo with my list. If there is a match, I close the portfolio and go on to the next.”

He then began to recite the photo clichés on his list.
“• no pictures of the expressive hands of old people,
• no pictures of the gnarled roots of mighty trees,
• no dramatic sunsets,
• no drooling babies,
• no cute, cuddly pets,
• no self-portraits in rear-view mirrors,
• no pictures of cemeteries with or without dancing nymphets,
  • no pictures of motorcycles boys with or without pierced nipples”, 
and he went on, to a riotous response of laughs and applause.

When I first started teaching in Bucks County I got lots of picturesque photos of barns and covered bridges, so I added the rule of
• no pictures of barns or covered bridges.

Then I came to teach at Temple University, an urban campus.  The first new rules that were added were
• no pictures on TU campus, and
• no pictures that could immediately be identified as typical student photos, including snapshots of roommates and drinking buddies.
• no pictures that look like they could have been shot at the family or company barbecue [aka snapshots]

These expanded to include the urban postcard set:
• no pictures of City Hall (or any landmark building)
• no pictures of the Love Sculpture (or any sculpture)
• no pictures of City Hall through the O of the Love Sculpture
  • no pictures of City Hall through the O of the Love Sculpture, reflected in a puddle. 
This is basically a way of saying
• no pictures that look like anything that might appear on a picture postcard.
• no pictures that look like snapshots
(these depend on personal knowledge of the people or places in the photos).
There are other types of photos that seem to have been used up by the commercial world that should be avoided, including the following:
• no pictures of musicians,
every record album shot is trying to look like art
• no pictures of dancers,
Dance Magazine is full of photos trying to look like art
• no pictures of kids on skateboards or bikes
like everything we see in bike and skateboard magazines
• no pictures of animals of any kind
they will just look like Nat Geo shots
This is basically a way of saying
• no pictures that look like anything that might appear in a documentary.
These are photojournalism, which is neither better nor worse, just different from what we are engaged in here, which is subjective rather than objective.

And finally
• no pictures that could be fashion ads.
The bottom line here is that the motivation for making any of these pictures is to sell something, not to make any kind of personal statement.  These photos cannot be art – they are commerce. ref : Sarah Moon


SMARTPHONE-SPECIFIC PHOTO CLICHES
There are some specific Photo clichés that have come up in previous smart phone photo classes.
• no selfies (the most obvious, with or without a selfie-stick)
This means not hamming it up for the camera, Making snapshots are only relevant to you and your friends.
• food pictures
Everybody seems to be compelled to take pictures of their meal to share to their friends.
• lights
         Finding great lighting is imperative, but taking pictures of lights is not quite as exciting.


VIEWING ON A P–ANGLE
Please do not turn the camera on an angle. This is known as a P-Angle, p being for pretentious. Here’s the story: You know when you go to a family picnic and your Uncle says, “Okay everybody, get together for a group picture”, and then just before he snaps the shot he tilts the camera on an angle. This is because he knows, even subconsciously, that he is about to take that generic family snapshot that is inherently a boring photograph. Tilting the camera makes it look like you’re trying to make an artsy photograph of something that is not all that interesting. [note: immediately shoot anyone who uses the term ‘artsy’ for they know nothing about art.]

Part of the aesthetic of shooting well-composed photographs is to frame the shot so it is obvious that the photo is being created by the photo-artist’s individual point of view. This has been called ‘constructed photographs.  This comes from considering the angle of view, the distance from the subject, and how things are lined up with the edges of the frame and with other things within the frame. One way to test this is to ask, “How does this photograph look different from what was seen when the shot was taken?” If it looks no different, then you are only capturing the appearance of the things in the photograph. What is far more interesting is your personal view of the things in the photograph.
note: also refer to the document ‘Passive/Active Shooting’.


MOTIVATION & INTENT


Sometimes it is not the appearance of the photograph that counts. It is the motivation of the photographer that is important. What is the photographer trying to share with you?  What is the essence of the communication?
This does not have to be some profound statement. It may only be some small part of the world they are drawn to, and then wish to share with you. If you find this same content interesting, then there is some similarity between you and the photographer. This is called resonance.
For this to work the artist must first be clear about what they are trying to communicate.
If they are not clear about their content, how can anyone ever understand what they are trying to say? If the motivation behind the content is indiscernible, then there is no communication.  If there is no communication then there is no art.
It can be so simple sometimes, that clarity can be the content!
Other times it can be buried behind layers of personal meaning, and only the surface is clear.  But still you can understand the depth of the feeling without knowing all the details. This is the emotional aspect of communication. EMOTIONAL discipline.
Other times it can be some ideas about the content.  Maybe the connection in a group of photos is the place or a series of events. This is an example of the conceptual aspect of photography. CONCEPTUAL discipline.
And even other times it can be the way a photo is made that can make it compelling. It could be some technical aspect of the craftsmanship. PHYSICAL discipline.


CONTACT SHEET SYNDROME 
Another measuring stick of progress in this class is how much time is invested in shooting for each critique. It says in the syllabus that part of your grade is based on “an ongoing effort to produce quality work”. If you come in with a collection photographs that were shot in one session, this demonstrates a lack of effort on the student’s part. 
You cannot show a group of photographs that are so limited in scope. It will look like a Contact Sheet. When you shoot, you are encouraged to shoot numerous shots of each subject, playing with the proximity and angle of view in an effort to get just the right framing and composition. But in the end you have to edit these down to select the single best photograph from each group of shots. This is called Creative Editing. 
The photos can be of similar subjects but you must shoot regularly throughout the two or three week period between critiques to get a varied collection of shots. You cannot do two weeks worth of work in a couple of hours. You cannot ‘cram’ for this class. It is about the evolution of ideas and refining your personal vision. You must shoot almost every day. Even if you think you have no to time to shot, then you should shoot on your way from one place to another. 

You should have a consistent body of work of each critique. Within this, however, you should have diversity. The consistency should come automatically if you are aware of what you are drawn to and make a conscious effort to study your shots as you go, determining what works well and what does not, and continually refining the nature of your quest for what is meaningful to you, and how you can shoot it so that it can become meaningful to your audience. The diversity will come from shooting on a regular basis and continually expanding the range of your visual investigations. 

FRAMING and COMPOSITION



The widespread use of photography as a documentary medium presents photographs to the public that give it all to the viewer without requiring a response. This is one-way communication. The goal in this case is to impart information quickly and cleanly. These pictures will not keep the viewer's attention for very long. People are happy just to identify what it is a picture of and then move on. 
In the Art world we are interested in two-way communication. It is important, therefore, to make images that raise questions that involve the viewer in a conversation. Meaningful images inspire their audience to compare their personal experiences with those of the photo-artist, using the photograph as linkage.
This end is achieved by creating images with a sense of mystery. Photographs that are filled with clues rather than facts are far more interesting. The artist must be clear about the questions their photos raise. If the motivation behind a photo is confused then the best one can hope for is a confused audience.
In general, the assignment for the semester is to make photographs with mystery, passion and meaning, using light as the paintbrush.  The first endeavor is to imbue your photos with a sense of mystery using a whole series of visual tools.  

Extrapolation
An interesting technique is to take whatever you are doing and figure out the most extreme example of that. Extrapolate it out to its logical conclusion. Below are some shooting strategies, followed by extrapolations to their extremes.

M Y S T E R Y   t h r o u g h   c o m p o s i t i o n   &   f r a m i n g   

COMPOSITION
[strategy >> closeness/ proximity]
remove all the unnecessary clutter or distractions from the image
cameras do not have editing filters that the mind supplies for vision
look carefully at you subject - take your time!
position the subject inside the viewfinder 
get close enough to remove all unwanted background
make sure you fill the frame with only meaningful content
moving closer eliminates any undesired elements
if you can step closer and remove unnecessary things from your image
and the image is no worse, it has been improved, by default!
this is called "economy of means" - saying much with few words
[extrapolation>> fragmentation]
get so close that you literally fragment the subject, 
making it more abstract
focus on the geometrical structure of the subject

[strategy>> unique angle of view/ attitude]
establish a good shooting angle 
never shoot from eye level
much of our lives are spent looking at the world from 5' 6" off the ground
this is where most people see the world from, i.e. the most boring viewpoint
put a new perspective on things that may be somewhat ordinary
shooting from a unique angle shows the photo is through the photographer’s eye, 
not just about the appearance of the subject
[extrapolation >> bird’s eye/ worm’s eye view]
find an extreme viewpoint that is rarely seen

[strategy>> luminance]
light is the bottom line in photography
a camera is merely a box that captures light!
if you are shooting in flat light you will get a flat picture
search for great light 
“if the light sucks, the photo will suck”. It is that simple.
sometimes it is possible make photographs that are just about the quality of light
look for things that either reflect or refract light in peculiar ways
water is a good example of something that both reflects and refracts water
the other side of light is shadow - the absence of light
find things hiding in shadows, or emerging out of the shadows
[extrapolation >> dramatic lighting/ deep shadow]
shoot at dawn, shoot at dusk, or in any unusual or unnatural light
shoot at night and find shadows or hidden features 

FRAMING
[strategy>> corners have power]
look at the corners of your subject 
place important elements of the picture near a corner
“if the corners are great the rest of the picture will take care of itself”
a face pushed up into a corner looking across the page can be inspiring
[extrapolation >> cut things as they are pushed into the corners]
[strategy>> edges have power]
look at the edges
place important aspects of the picture close to an edge
align horizons or prominent lines with the edge of the frame
crooked pictures show a lack of attention
[extrapolation >> push horizons to the very top or very bottom of the frame]
this open up the space and extends the vision
make a painting out of your subject
“But for me the greatest joy is geometry. Its a sensuous pleasure, an intellectual pleasure at the same time to have everything at the right place. It’s a recognition of an order that is in front of you.” - Henri Cartier-Bresson
shoot a picture that is blank except for the edge(s)

Shooting with Intuition
take several shots of each subject
you are not allowed to crop your photos
if you could you would not look carefully, thinking, “I can fix it later”
sometimes the best picture is over and inch or down two, and a second later...
A photograph is an “...Immediate sketch done with intuition and you can't correct it. If you have to correct it, it's your next picture.” -HCB  “The difference between a good picture and a mediocre picture is a matter of millimeters- small, small differences, but it is essential.” “And if I take the picture from there it's another arrangement of that. And it's very small moves I'm doing.” - Henri Cartier-Bresson

refine your vision with each shot
take a shot, move closer, change your angle of view, shoot again, repeat
“You have to be yourself and you have to forget yourself so that the image comes much stronger, and what you want and what you say.” “And sometimes there's no picture. Alright there's no picture.” - Henri Cartier-Bresson








Friday, August 28, 2015

TOPIC 1 - B&W + Toning = Mystery




The first Topic of this Smartphone photography class is to shoot in black-and-white, primarily to better learn framing and composition, and then so we can present a subject with a sense of mystery. MYSTERY is the key to make interesting photographs. If the subject of a photo is easily identifiable then people will not look at it very long. Make people work at understanding the meaning of the photo. Having your viewer to ask questions of the photo, rather than just receiving answers, is the key. [This is the difference between monolog and dialog. Artists are interested in having the two-way version communication.] 
Then we will add some warm tonality to the photos to impart a sense of PASSION into the photographs.

Shooting B&W
Both the iPhone and Android phones have a built-in black-and-white option in the standard Camera app. There is little or no room for adjustment with these apps however, so something better must be found. We need apps that will allow us to adjust several aspects of the photograph.

Tonal Range (Exposure) Control
Our first challenge is to find apps that will give us some control over the tonal range of our shots in general. This is sometimes know as ‘adjustments’. The dark end of the photo should be a rich deep black. The white end of the photo should be bright but not ‘blown out’ (completely white). Some people see high-contrast as a matter of style,  but excessively contrasty photos with either no shadow detail or highlight detail are technically not right. 
The other extreme is not good either. If the dark shadows are not really black the photo will look washed out. If the highlights are too grey, the photo will look flat. You have to find the sweet spot of a full-range tonality without going over or under. 

            
 [When I was taught how to make ‘proper negatives’ the mot important quote was ‘If there is no photographic information in either the shadows or highlights then there is no picture, and this is incorrect processing.]


 Today with Smartphones people seem to get away with doing almost anything in the name of style, and I am willing to accept that, up to a point. This new Smartphone medium is really changing the way photographs are seen, and this is really great! So let’s see how far we can go in the name of creativity and still make ‘quality’ photographs.

Toning Control
Our next challenge is to find a good app that will add a subtle sepia or warm-tone effect. This a more specific adjustment and is not so readily available by name. It may require using something called ‘aged’ or ‘vintage’ or ‘drama’ but some of these also play with the tonal range as well to make their effect.  So be careful but be adventurous.
The most important advice with this type of adjustment is: Don’t over do it! Just add enough color to warm up the photo. If the effect is too strong and people see the effect before they see the photo it has been overdone. 


Basic Smartphone Photo Apps


Some of the best known apps are listed below, but your challenge is to find something else in addition to these. This is where this class acts as a Research Team. Everyone will post the results of their research in a Recipe at the end of the critique blog. If you find something good you should post your Recipe before the critique so your classmates can benefit from your work. 

.  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  
SnapSeed from Google (iPhone and Android) gives you the ability to alter the photo into B&W with numerous controls. It will not really give you a direct way to add some warm tone called sepia tone but by blending effects such as B&W and Vintage you can get there. It does have a wide range of other effects, all of which are very controllable. The list includes Selective Adjust, Tune Image, Straighten, Crop, Details, Black & White, Vintage, Drama, Grunge, Center Focus, Tilt-Shift, Retroflex and Frames.
 See the SnapSeed web page for full details. https://support.google.com/snapseed/ 

VSCO Cam (iPhone and Android) works with presets that are tweakable. Not the greatest range of control. Maybe better with color than B&W photos.

.  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  
Camera+ (iPhone only) Has 4 banks of ‘Filters’; Color, Retro, Special, Standard,(plus Analog and Hollywood for an additional fee), each with 9 variations, that are all controllable. Plus ‘The Lab’ including Rotate, Straighten, Tint, Duotone, Soft Focus, FIlm Grain, Sharpen, Blur, Saturation, Temperature, Exposure, Brightness & Contrast, Highlights & Shadows, and Vignette. DuoTone allow adding separate tints or tones to the shadows and highlights. 

Photo FX (iPhone only) from Tiffen, the camera filter company, is a very professional app that is very controllable. It has 77 filters organized into eight groups, 934 preset settings and 65 different color or black-and-white film looks.

.  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  
Camera ZOOM FX (Android only) More an app for composition and shooting control than creative control, but a good app.

Camera FV-5 (Android only) brings DSLR control to the smartphone.


History & Aesthetics


The first Topic involves shooting in Greyscale. This is important if you want to learn how to compose photographs. Color just seems to get in the way when trying to organize visual space.


[terminology: ‘Grayscale’ refers to a photograph having a full range of monochrome tonality, black to white. ‘Black & White’ technically refers to an image that has only black and white tones, i.e. a very hard contrast image. But since the first film was called Black & White film, the term is now used to refer to Grayscale photos.]


The first question that arises is, why make photographs in black-and-white? If you look at the history of modern photography the first photograph taken with a camera was shot by Daguerre in 1838 with an exposure that was several minutes long. It wasn’t until 1935 that Kodak introduced the first commercial color film called Kodachrome. That gives us a history of almost 100 years of black-and-white photographs. 

The difference is that early photographs were made with light sensitive material that was sensitive to all the light that was hitting the film. The prints worked the same way and rendered images in shades of gray from black, being the most dense, to white, where there was no pigment at all.

The Kodak color process is a three layer film with different layers responding to different portions of the visible spectrum, namely red, green and blue. This same processes is used today. To make prints from this film subtractive color theory is used that employs the colors cyan, magenta and yellow. The technology we are using today, consisting of a computer screen and an inkjet printer, uses the same basic theories. The screen is made of very tiny red, green and blue pixels. The ink in our inkjet printers is cyan, magenta and yellow plus black.

Even today with all of our technology we find that black-and-white photographs still have an enigmatic quality. They can transform a somewhat normal scene into one with drama. The photographs from the first century of photography had ‘feel’ because the chemistry was not really perfect back then. The early photographs were not really cold dead black. They had a warmer brownish tonality that added another layer of ‘feel’ to the prints. It wasn’t until the 1950s they we really had neutral tone black-and-white photo paper.

Many photo artists today turn to the black-and-white image to satisfy their desire to make highly emotive photographs. Then they treat their photographic prints with special chemicals that render them warm tone and even more evocative. Some just see it as the pure form of photography and shoot this way out of reverence. 

Our smartphone cameras have the ability to reduce a full-color world to black-and-white by using special software. We can also easily add a bit of warm tone quality. Working in black-and-white also makes it much easier to learn how to frame the subject in the viewfinder (aka screen) and compose the shot in a way that organizes the scene and creates a visual geometry. [ref: Henri Cartier-Bresson on the Research Pages]  When you shoot in color all the resulting reality seems to get in the way. People’s attention usually gets seduced by the color and we forget about the more formal qualities of the photograph.






Wednesday, August 26, 2015

Accepting the Invitation to the Blog




You will receive an invitation to the class blog in your TU email. There is a bit of a trick to this. You must have a Gmail account that is different from your TU email account. If you already have a Gmail account you are good to go. If not you will have to create one.

Do not try to use you TU email to accept the invitation to the blog. You will be locked out, creating problems. [If you have any problems, send me you Google account address and I will send you another invite.]

The invitation email will look like this (This example shows section 702):




This gives you 2 options:

1- If you already have a Google Account, hit the Accept Invitation button.
That will take you to a web page that says, “You have been invited to contribute to a blog”
Click on the Accept Invitation button there and you’re in.

2- If you DO NOT have Google account and only have a TU email, click on the ‘create one here’ link in the email. 
If this link does not work (it didn’t on my computer) use this link:

This will take you to a Signup form. Fill out all the information. 
After you have your Google account, go back to the email and accept the invitation.

One last thing:
Once you have your Google Account, sign up for Google +. This will ask you to add a head shot. This will make it possible for the other students in the class to see who you are. This makes the class more personal and therefore more collaborative.

The Blogger 'Accept Invitation' web page looks like this, but with your name in the top line:












Tuesday, August 25, 2015

Class Schedule and Weekly Routine

A R T   P H O T O G R A P H Y   –   S M A R T P H O N E   P H O T O    
S E M E S T E R   S C H E D U L E   –   F A L L   2 0 1 5 

Tyler School of Art/ Department of Graphic Arts & Design/ ARTU 2831-701
Tyler Photography Area / On-Line Class
All students must participate in all critiques!


F15


ART/ SMARTPHONE PHOTO 2831-701

week 1
M
08/24
intro/ blog setup




TOPIC 1 -  B&W Photo / Mystery

week 2

08/31
shoot, process, post (post 6 min)

week 3

09/07
shoot, process, post (post 6 min)

week 4
T
09/15
CRIT 1 final photos due (12 + 2 sp*)
5PM

W
09/16
CRIT 1 Commentary due
5PM

R
09/17
CRIT 1 Self-Evaluations due 
5PM

F
09/18
TOPIC 2 - Color Photo/ Passion

week 5

09/21
shoot, process, post (post 6 min)

week 6

09/28
shoot, process, post (post 6 min)

week 7

10/05
shoot, process, post (post 6 min)

week 8
M
10/12
CRIT 2 final photos due (15 + 2 sp*)
5PM

T
10/13
CRIT 2 Commentary due
5PM

R
10/15
CRIT 2 Self-Evaluations due 
5PM

F
10/16
TOPIC 3 - Vintage/ Memory

week 9

10/19
shoot, process, post (post 8 min)

week 10

10/26
shoot, process, post (post 8 min)

week 11

11/02
shoot, process, post (post 8 min)

week 12
M
11/09
CRIT 3 final photos due (18 + 2 sp*)
5PM

T
11/10
CRIT 3 Commentary due
5PM

R
11/12
CRIT 3 Self-Evaluations due 
5PM

F
11/13
TOPIC 4 - Final Portfolio

week 13

11/16
shoot, process…



11/23
Fall Break/ Thanksgiving

week 14

11/30
portfolio preparation

week 15
M
12/07
FINAL PORTFOLIO due
5PM

*Each Critique requires 2 Self-Portraits.
Check your temple.edu e-mail weekly for additional information.

CONTACTS
Department of Graphic Arts & Design/ Tyler Building, Room 210U 777-9145
Tyler Photo Cage 777-9225
Steven Berkowitz/ Associate Professor          berk@temple.edu www.berk–edu.com
Office Hours (by appointment) Mondays 8:00 - 10:00 PM /Wednesday 4:30 – 5:30 PM



A R T   P H O T O G R A P H Y   -   S M A R T P H O N E   P H O T O    
W E E K L Y   R O U T I N E   –   F A L L   2 0 1 5


Below is the typical routine for the critique cycles: 

Fridays are the introduction days of new topics including aesthetics, techniques, ways of shooting, ways of processing (apps), etc. (except for the first week of the semester). You should study and absorb this information quickly and, in a day or two, start shooting, processing and posting your photos to the class blog. You should shoot and post every day. That is part of the routine of this class.  
You can only really learn this by thinking, shooting, posting on an ongoing manner [think, make, share]. This is an Art Studio course and it utilizes ‘experiential learning’ that is quite different from ‘book learning’ as in most academic classes. Because of this, it is not possible to cram for a studio class. You cannot wait unit the day before the Critique is due to shoot everything. If you try this you will never learn how to shoot properly let alone how to think about what you are shooting. Do not cheat yourself out of the education you are paying for. 
note: All handouts mentioned below are easily accessible on the Professor’s web site

The general rhythm of this class is as follows:
  • learn the new topics, incorporate them into your way of seeing, shooting, processing... 
  • look at other people’s work of a similar ilk (research)

  • shoot, process & post photographs every day, at least 2 per day to start, then increase
You should post at least 2 shots per day at the beginning of the semester
8 active days of shooting and posting = 16 photos for Crit 1
10 active days of shooting and posting = 20 photos for Crit 2
This should increase to 3 shots per day by the 3rd crit
10 active days of shooting and posting = 30 photos for Crit 3 and Crit 4
When you are ready to start shooting you should first review all the documents that apply to the Aesthetics of Shooting, including;

You have at least two full weeks to shoot, process and post photos. The weekends are optional.

Mondays of the third following week are the due date for your Critique photos.
Before this date you should go through everything that has been posted on-line (there should be more that the minimum number of prints already on-line) and edit down to the actual number of prints due (or a little bit over if desired). 
  • the full number of prints required for the critique should now be uploaded
  • add numbers above each of your prints so people can easily vote for their favorite
• add a RECIPE of your best photo so people cane learn from how you are working
include then names of any apps used and the relevant settings


*note: the first Critique for Monday ~ Tuesday 9/14-15 is pushed back to Tuesday ~ Wednesday 9/15-16 for Religious Holiday 

Tuesdays are the days to look at and make commentary on the photos of your classmates.  
  • look at other people’s photos and comment on them

  • tell any story that the photos remind you of: 
(sharing personal experience: resonance)
  • cast a vote for each person in the class indicating which shot you think is their best
note: no one will want to comment on your photos if you do not comment on theirs. 
This is another variation of the Golden Rule.

Thursdays are the days that your self-evaluations are due
  • review all the comments you have received
  • write a synopsis of that commentary, again based on 3 criteria: content, form, impact 
  • there is a handout explaining how to write a self-evaluation using these three concepts

  • determine which of your prints is the best (according to peer voting)
• This photo is designated your POW (Picture of the Week)
  • include the POW in the Self-Evaluation document
• e-mail the finished Self-Evaluation document to the professor in MS Word format

Fridays are also the days when the next topic will be posted and the cycle starts over again...
note: these topics will most likely be amended based on the interests of the group as evidenced by the photographs that are posted. 

note: All students must participate and complete all phases of each Critique cycle. Failure to complete any segment results in failure of the entire critique.